Winter Outerwear Essentials #5: The Trench Coat
The final chapter on the series is focused on a timeless piece, a classic staple which has become a rightful representation of men’s elegance: the Trench Coat. Similarly to the other essentials, its roots date back to the 19th century military, with British manufacturers such as Charles Macintosh, John Emary (Aquascutum) and Thomas Burberry assuming a leading role in its rising popularity. Created out of necessity for a functional garment to face the rain, current features of the trench coat are the result of numerous evolution iterations throughout the years.
As expected, these evolutional steps translated into several versions, with variations in length, color, fabric, details, closure and trimmings. Army surplus still remains a go-to choice, as do vintage Burberry, but nowadays you can find whatever option best suits your personal style and wardrobe: single or double breasted, sitting above the knee or at the waist, in rubberized cotton or gabardine, the choice is entirely up to you. Personally, I favor the most traditional styles, coming in khaki or navy blue, longer and belted for a sleek, elegant silhouette, reminiscent of iconic Hollywood movie stars.
This version by Paul Smith is a perfect example, incorporating most trademark features apart from the double breasted closure: lightweight cotton gabardine fabric exuding a subdued green iridescent glow, storm flaps, leather trimmed belt, epaulettes, single back vent, hook and eye collar closure and removable checked wool lining. The latter allows for added versatility, making it appropriate for both Winter and early Spring showers. When purchasing a trench, be mindful that it’s not the best alternative when it comes to keeping you warm, so you’ll need to layer up during colder months (for this reason don’t go for a super fitted model). Here, I made the most of thin, yet warm layers: dress shirt, cashmere cardigan, cotton/linen vest and chalk stripe flannel suit, throwing in an array of accessories such as the paisley tie, floral scarf, wool fedora and pocket square. The result is an intricate attire, comprised by several textures and complementing shades, revolving around a color palette of grey and green.
Details: Trench Coat by Paul Smith, striped dress shirt by Ann Demeulemeester, cashmere cardigan by Annapurna 5+1, cotton/linen vest by Zara, chalk stripe flannel suit by Purificacion Garcia, loafers by Tods, MTO fedora by Fábrica dos Chapéus, wool scarf by Èpice, shades by Ray-Ban, vintage paisley tie, pocket square by Lobo Marinho and wool socks by Pé de Meia.
Model and Styling: Miguel Amaral Vieira
Ph: Filipa Alves