Apr 17, 2015

The Perfect Suit Fit Guide for a Modern Man

Here's everything you need to know about the latest suit trends and style—plus how to pick the right one for you.

A great suit offers a complete different level of swagger. While it has been the uniform of gents for centuries, modern men prefer items that better reflects their individual style. And the fashion world is responding with limitless options for the style conscious modern gents.
This post will give you the basic knowledge for the perfect suit fit guide and help you express your unique style.

The Current Suit Trends

Before we explore further, it is crucial to understand that men’s suiting and formal-wear trends are not necessarily seasonal and continue to play out for several years. This means, investing in a few quality pieces now will last you for years to come without requiring you to replace them frequently.

The current styles that any modern suit should have include:

  • Classicism
  • Masculinity

Let’s begin with the classic part, which also happen to be the easiest part. Even the most stylish modern suit carries the best elements of yesteryears and combines them with prevailing trends to create a modern silhouette. The examples of classicism in a modern suit include the Victorian era formality, the 1930s’ savoir faire, the skinny detailing of the 60s era and so on.Almost all modern suits remain true to these qualities.

It is the masculinity of a suit, however, that is difficult to define. You just cannot order a suit infused with masculinity. There are various qualities that define this particular feature of a suit. For example, modern suits are all about a cut. It should complement the male physique; a suit must be made in such a way that it trims the waist and broadens the shoulders in order to highlight a well-toned body.
This is what defines the masculine feature of a suit, something that makes you more confident and manlier. It must have a clean cut along with few flourishes or some extra details that emphasize on your masculinity.

Suit Cuts

When it comes to investing in a suit that highlights your best features, custom made suits are always a better option as opposed to off-the rack items. They are made according to your shape and size while keeping the current trends in mind. For example, a slim cut is the on-trend cut for men’s suit these days. It is neither overly boxy nor overly-skinny.

how_to_pick_a_suit_sAs mentioned, a modern suit should accent a sense of masculinity through the following silhouette elements:

  • A slim waist
  • Broad shoulders
  • Slim trousers

Keeping these 3 attributes in mind, let’s consider the suit cuts that are in fashion:

Single Breasted Suits

This particular cut is never out of fashion. Nevertheless, they are dominant and on-trend suit cut these days. There are two prevailing styles here:

The Perfect Suit Fit Guide for a Modern Man The Perfect Suit Fit Guide for a Modern Man The Perfect Suit Fit Guide for a Modern Man

The Sleek Cut: This could be your style if you want to wear your suit in a toned down way. The sleek cut suits are completely formal and business wear and must be impeccably made. A sleek cut, single breasted suit should have the following details:

  • It must have slim/ medium sized notched lapels
  • A breast pocket to keep a pocket square
  • Position the upper button around your navel

The Confidence Cut: These suits come with some extra and potentially overt details. If you have the confidence to wear them, this cut could be your style this season. The confidence cut is all about highlighting the male physique while reviving the classic suiting elements. Unlike the sleek cut single breasted suit, this suit features ‘peaked lapels’, which was so popular during the 1930s and 1970s era.

Double Breasted Suits and Sports Coats

The modern, double-breasted suit has shed off the in-famous boxy cut. Instead they now accent and heighten the V-shaped body of a gent – his perfect masculine shape. So if you happen to have a double breasted suit that belonged to an earlier era, don’t discard it. Rather take it to your tailor and refresh the cut and style.

The Perfect Suit Fit Guide for a Modern Man The Perfect Suit Fit Guide for a Modern Man The Perfect Suit Fit Guide for a Modern Man
In case you are buying a tailor-made double breasted suit or an off-the-rack item, remember that the attributes we have discussed earlier in terms of cut are applicable here as well. It has all the features of a sleek cut suit along with the ‘peaked lapels’ feature of a confident cut. In addition, the breast pocket of a double breasted suit cut to accommodate not just a pocket square (unlike single breast suits) but a pocket handkerchief.It is a desirable flourish that adds attention to detail.

The ‘Kent’ cut is the on-trend cut for a double-breasted suit. These suits have a longer lapel line that extends into the waist; you also leave the top right button unfastened but the bottom right button must be done. These days, many men keep the inner left button unfastened as well. This cut makes you look taller and implies that you have a well-toned and trimmed waist.

Three-Piece Suits

Though the trend of wearing waistcoat has been dead for many men, the item is back in men’s street wear as a statement piece. Men are wearing waistcoats a standalone piece for a casual or business-casual look. So if you want to look sartorially savvy and stand out in the crowd, a three piece suit is a good item to invest in.

The Perfect Suit Fit Guide for a Modern Man The Perfect Suit Fit Guide for a Modern Man The Perfect Suit Fit Guide for a Modern Man

The modern three-piece suits are all about cohesion, meaning the waistcoat must be cohesive and made from the same fabric as your suit jacket and trouser. To buy a perfect three-piece suit, make sure the V shape of your waistcoat breaks between your sternum and the base of your rib cage. Avoid waistcoats that finish just under the collar as they fail to convey a slim waist and are more difficult to wear. Such waistcoats are designed to imply more height, something you can also achieve from a Kent cut and that too without looking clumsy.

Sack Suit Cut

If you want a dress-down look, this style of suit is a great option that combines vintage fashion with masculinity-focused elements of modern suiting. The neo-sack suit cut comes with rolled shoulders and a slimmer waist. However, it is not as slim as other on-trend suit cuts mentioned earlier. This style requires some clever tailoring to avoid the problems associated with this suit cut.

Final Words

Your suit, irrespective of the style and cut, should be well fitted; something that fits naturally with your silhouette. A tailored item is your best bet here. In case, you are buying something off-the-rack, don’t forget to take it to your tailor for additional tweaks and final touches to enhance your exuding style confidence. After all it’s the fitting, from collar to cuffs that makes a suit perfect.


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