Memoirs of a Gangster! Astrid Andersen continued the hip-hop streerwear theme that as been prevalent in many collections the past few seasons with an added twist - sumo wrestling! I thought the fusion was well devised by adding on to trends we've seen before that are still popular (hip-hop streetwear) as well as developing trends like the crop-top shirt for men. All in all a very bold and defining moment for Andersen as a designer and brand.
There's something about J.W. Anderson. A theme I've noticed in all of the fashion week shows is a blending between genders - not so much unisex, but a feminine air to classic men's pieces. Anderson has always shown that blurred line in his collections, and now it is transcending and spilling into other's collection. As seen above, a classic men's coat made almost coatdressy in its fluidity.
Topman Design vs. Katie Eary
I couldn't chose one because I felt that there was a definitive connection and huge difference that needed to be spotted in both Topman & Katie Eary's collection. While both give a throwback vibe, I feel only one achieved a statement, while the other gave a costume. Topman Design's 70s inspired pieces induced a nostalgic air,whereas Katie Eary just gave Austin Powers in The Spy That Shagged Me.
I always imagine Calvin Men like Michelangelo's David, the ideal representation of clothes for men. When wearing Calvin Klein you look and feel strong, structured, and sensual. Very simple muted flesh tones just emphasize the god-like creation of a person in Calvin Klein. CKC creates sculptures and you know it just by a glance.
Suits & Sandals! Of all the Milan shows I think a casual male was the aesthetic. But the there's more to meet the eye here. The clothes look so comfortable and relaxing but the distressed jean jackets were actually made of bonded and weaved leather! It as, Tim Blanks states, "creating your own reality" - blending in but still being completely unique!
Shiver me timbers! Gucci is taking us to sea! This collection was a bridge between the astute Gucci man and Jack Sparrow - in the best way! Fun sophistication! One minute great tailored suits and then loose blousey shirts the next!
Maison Martin Margiela
There was something about the Margiela show that was so put together, yet so torn apart. Lee Carter in his review of the show on Style.com described it as self-contradictory with 'destruction being at the core of the collection' which can definitely be seen. The soft tones and textures are met with gaping holes and mismatched pants - or no pants at all! Some of the fabrics look rough while others look plush. Again, I find ties to the type of 'new man' we're seeing on runways now - blending between soft and hard.
Dries Van Noten
"It was time for something different. I wanted a sensual man." A quote from Dries Van Noten from Style.com. Silky over sized robes, scoop neck shirts and ballet flats definitely give the sensual vibe. This collection is definitely one of my favorites. The clothes are lofty, breezy, and sophisticated! A round of applause for Dries van Noten!
I mean... Thom Browne kills every season! The presentation itself is so creative you get carried away into his world! I like to think of this collection as a skeleton to Calvin Klein's skin and flesh. The 'muscle' details on the jackets and shorts exaggerates the human form. The army of plastic faced men sitting militantly in line . The picture Browne paints with presentation alone makes his show incredible to experience!