Missoni is fast becoming a favourite stop at Milan Fashion Week because where else on the planet can you find textures and colours and patterns and shapes made up in such perfectly proportioned menswear? Nowhere, that’s where. What you can’t see from the photos is that the back of that suede jacket is knitted cotton — sick — and if that’s too outré for your tastes, they offered a simpler four-pocket utility jacket in a rich blue cotton/linen. Something for everybody!
Whatever you think of Thom Browne’s work, you cannot argue with these two facts: The man is a master showman; and he’s most likely responsible for your rolled/cuffed/shortened pants, whether you know it or not. Last night’s Moncler Gamme Bleu collection was centered around rowing teams (or cox-men — an expression I’ve been using liberally), about to embark on an Oxbridge or Ivy League race.
It manifested itself in real live crew boats on the runway, four teams of boys cheering each other on before, during and after their catwalk-walks, and a ton of seersucker, buckets hats, boat shoes, and striped socks, plus all the typical Thom Browne shrunken jackets and heavily cuffed pants. Go team.
As far as I can tell, the key is that the shorts are wide-legged, but sit right on the knee. Any longer and they’d be venturing into bad early 90s gangsta territory, any shorter and it’d be boys in culottes. Don’t knock it, who knows what we’ll be a wearing in S/S18.
Prada shows often take me a while to get round to the idea of what they’re proposing aesthetically. Yesterday’s collection wasn’t such a stretch, but there were moments when I wished that the styling could have been pared back to a point where it was easier to imagine how a guy might wear this stuff on the street. Obviously that right there is the difference between a runway show and in-store merchandising, but I found myself getting distracted by the multi-layered front tucks and proliferation of sleeves popping out of jacket arms, etc etc.
Pull it all apart though, and there are some extremely covetable items: Those white topstitched jackets and pants, the intarsia-knit bunny and racing car sweaters, and the colour-blocked shirts will no doubt fly off the shelves.
Salvatore Ferragamo had some similar stripe and colour stories, but the brand definitely subscribed to more of a less is more philosophy. I love the idea of a cleanly tailored pinstripe DB suit with a patterned shirt…
All photos: style.com
I LIKE YOU!