I believe you all have a bit of sartorial knowledge by now so I won’t insult you writing “the 25 pieces of basic sartorial knowledge”. However, after being in the jury for my school’s recruitment interviews, I thought it might be useful to write down a few guidelines to step up from suit-up to elegance. I inserted in the post some inspiring shots from The Sartorialist and The Armoury so you have bold visual intel to be inspired !
- Remove the tags on the sleeves of your jacket before you wear it. I’ve seen it. True story.
- Brown shoes, brown belt. Black shoes, black belt.
- Unbutton the bottom button of your jacket. It’s not intended to be buttoned.
- Unbutton your jacket when seating. Please. That hurts my eyes as much as your jacket.
- Avoid wearing visible logos, especially when formally attired; you are a vehicle for your own style identity, and your choices should further your expression rather than the brand’s.
- Your collar should have only one fastening button.
- Your tie should be tied and your shirt closed.
- Jacket pockets are intended to be opened. Use a small scissor or seam ripper.
- Your jacket sleeve should be short enough to show some shirt cuff – about 2 centimeters.
- The shirt sleeves should never cover the hand. It should stop right under your forearm’s bone.
- Your pants should end at your shoes without puddling. A slight or half break means that there is one modest inflection point in the front crease. If your pants break both front and back or if they break on the sides, they’re too long.
- A tuxedo should have just one button.
- Your tie knot should have a dimple.
- If your shirt is tucked in, you should be wearing a belt (or suspenders, if you’re wearing a jacket as well, or your trousers should have side adjusters and no belt loops).
- If you ever decide not to wear a tie, you can unfasten the first and the second button of your shirt but not more.
- Square-toe shoes and pointy shoes are strictly prohibited.
- Never wear visible socks with shorts.
- Your tie should reach your belt line – it shouldn’t end above your belt or below it.
- If you wear a hat – which can be great – take it off when you are inside, unless you are at an airport or a similarly public place. Take it off when you greet someone too. At places of worship, different rules apply.
- Make sure the heels and tips of your leather-soled dress shoes well maintained and are kept in regular polish. If you bring your shoes to the cobbler on time, it will be less expensive, and your shoes will last much longer.
- When wearing a suit, make sure to always wear long socks. Nobody wants to see your hairy legs.
- Pocket squares are optional. I mean authorized. They shouldn’t be the center point of your attire however.
- With ready-to-wear suits or shirts, you might want to have it tailored. It changes it all. It’s like entering a new galaxy. My opinion is that women see the difference. So should you.
- Don’t force anything. If something feels wrong. It is for sure.
- Be polite and remember: a boy makes his girl jealous of other women, a gentleman makes other woman jealous of his girl.
All images courtesy of The Sartorialist or The Armoury.
Tips edited from Put This On.
More from the Details Style Syndicate:
12 Essential Suit Rules
By Fraquoh and Franchomme
The suit as we know it appeared in the 19th century, during a period of sartorial revolution. The modern version of the suit is the result of many steps taken into the direction of comfort. And it’s true, comfort is key when you are wearing a suit.